20/08/2006 by admin.

Journey’s End, 18th August,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

With a foaming pint of Tennent’s before him, and no more cycling for a while, Liam relaxes on our last CalMac ferry, from Craignure on Mull back to Oban on the mainland. We have cycled a total of 275 miles in 6 days, with no major mechanical problems with the bikes. The paniers slowed us down considerably, especially on the steeper climbs yesterday, and we each had rear wheel punctures due the excess weight on the back, but my broken cleat was the only serious mishap. We consider the trip a total success, although the margins for mechanical failure must have been quite narrow at times, as our bikes are not designed for touring, and they have stood up to some tough punishment, particularly on Day One on the Uists, when we thundered over cattle-grids without a care in the world. By Wednesday, we dismounted and conscientiously pushed over each one. Photographically, I’ve not done anything like the number of pictures I expected to, and I’ve concluded that trying to combine a serious documentary photography project wih cycling is not feasible, as the logistics of the journey, as well as the physical and mental effort involved, occupied most of our waking hours. The rest of the time, we squandered.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

Tobermory (or is it Balamory?),
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

The painted harbour front cottages of Tobermory, now also known as Balamory in the children’s TV show. We did make extensive plans last night to record a video of Liam at some Balamory locations, for the amusement of his children, but today all we seem to have managed is this. Also consigned to the dustbin of history is the plan to do a 40 mile circuit of Ben More, settling instead for a straightforward 21 mile coastal amble to Craignure, the ferry port back to Oban.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

Men in Yellow, 16th August,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

An hour to kill before the last ferry of the day speeds us to the bright lights of Tobermory after the toughest day’s cycling of the trip. We left Skye this morning on the 8.50 ferry, arriving at Mallaig on the mainland at 9.15, just in time for breakfast at the Fishermen’s Mission, which turned out to be a poor substitute for the CalMac version. There was a display of black & white photographs of Mallaig fishermen, and in the bookshop I decide against buying The Life & Times of Saddam Hussein for 50p as a present for Liam, as I am certain he will not consider it worthy of panier-space. We leave Mallaig, I immediately get a flat tyre, lose Liam for half an hour before he notices, cross various nasty steep headlands, follow the banks of sea-lochs, have lunch at Fergie’s Bar, and finally arrive at Kilchoan at 5.00 pm, just misssing the 4.45 ferry. Our quest for tea or coffee ends in bitter disappointment, so we settle for Lucozade and a Magnum Double Caramel.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

Room With a View,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

Having cycled 60 miles over some very tough terrain, in miserable weather, Liam is distinctly unimpressed with the waiting room facilities at Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan peninsula, which resemble an unused sauna. We’ve kept the jokes going pretty much all the way, but they’re wearing a bit thin by now. However, things will soon be looking up, as tonight we have the luxury of Ivybank B & B in Tobermory to look forward to, so for once we’re not sharing a dormitory wirth six other sweaty blokes. Although I suspect they get the worst of the arrangement, for reasons I need not dwell on here.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

Armadale,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

View of the Knoydart peninsula on the mainland from Armadale. I thought I’d be doing more pictures like this, but quite often the weather isn’t very good, or the light isn’t right, or I have some other excuse for not getting the camera out of whichever panier I have stuffed it in, under a pair of festering cycling shorts. The truth is it has become almost impossible to think about anything else while we are actually cycling, and it just doesn’t seem reasonable to keep grinding to a halt to take a couple of snaps. Once we stop cycling for the day, the main priority becomes finding something reasonably clean to wear, and a suitable establishment to refuel before the following day’s exertions.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

The Magnificent Two,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

With a couple of hours before the hostel opens for the night, there is time for another photo-opportunity in between visits to the bar at the Ardvasar Inn. There’s not much else to do in the village of Ardvasar, and our one disappointment concerns the harbourside restaurant advertised in the Rough Guide as ‘The Pasta Shed”. Having conjured up mental images of steaming plates piled high with mounds of tagliatelle, to sustain us on the long mountainous journey tomorrow, it appears that the eatery is now simply ‘The Shed’, and pasta is no longer on the menu in any shape or form. Fortunately, the Ardvasar Inn offers a range of reasonably priced dishes to fulfill our needs.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

What View?,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

Once again, Liam’s demeanour is a reliable barometer of the current state of the tour. Arriving ahead of schedule at Armadale, we are delighted to discover the village possesses a pub with a pool table, the Ardvasar Inn. Simultaneously, we agree to spend a convivial evening there, enjoying an excellent meal, washed down with copious amounts of the excellent products of the Tennent’s brewery. This turns out to be one of the best ideas we have had.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

The Garden of Skye, 15th August,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

After 2 nights on Skye, we are heading to Armadale on the Sleat peninsula, cycling in perfect conditions on a good road for once. I can’t really explain why there aren’t more pictures of Skye, but it may be something to do with the amount of single malt whiskies we were introduced to by a couple of ‘experts’ who turned out to be itinerant folk-singers on their way to Lewis. We did a very enjoyable ride round the top end of the Trottternish peninsula on Sunday afternoon, followed by a jaunt down to Portree on Monday. Unfortunately, one of my brand new Wellgo pedal cleats, purchased for £50 on Friday , has parted company with the shoe, so I am no longer locked into the pedal. Roadside repairs have been carried out, but it looks pretty terminal. Still manage to record the speed record for the trip of 37mph on this stretch or road.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

Farewell to the Western Isles, 13th August,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

After consulting the CalMac timetable, we realize that there is an alternative to Plan A. We decide to give Harris and Lewis a miss, as it’s Sunday and the chances of getting any bodily sustenance today are slim to say the least, not to mention a serious mountain traverse followed by another 60 miles, so we take the Lochmaddy ferry to Uig on Skye. Unfortunately, this means retracing our last 12 miles from last night, but it’s a small price to pay, as the CalMac breakfast is the perfect start to the day, and the much smaller vessel which crosses the Sound of Harris appears to have no cooking facilities. Liam’s expression is once again a clear indicator of the status of the trip - with a black pudding, 2 rashers, and 2 sausages inside him, it’s 8 o’clock and all’s well.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »

20/08/2006 by admin.

A Quiet Night In,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

Much like Fletcher and Godber in Porridge, we elect for a quiet night in tonight, which may have something to do with the total absence of pubs. The bikes are happy, as this is a vast improvement on their normal accommodation. We are less happy, as the only diversions available consist of the contents of the bookshelf, where Bravo Two Zero is edged out for the literary prize by Jennings & Darbyshire. Once again, I question Liam about the size of hip flask he considers adequate. It’s still day one.

Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »