20/08/2006 by admin.

Berneray,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

Having cycled the first 60 miles of the tour, from South Uist, across Benbecula and North Uist to Berneray, the southern cluster of the Outer Hebrides, we are relieved to discover unoccupied beds at Berneray. Our satisfied expressions may have something to do with having just emptied Liam’s hip flask. These will shortly be replaced by dissatisfied expressions when we examine the accommodation. We are still in the happy position of wearing reasonably clean kit - this state of affirs will not last for very long. The bikes have held up to the day’s rigours very well, with just one puncture between us, and the road surface has been reasonable, not to mention flat, which is the way I like it. Not looking forward to tomorrow’s daunting climb on Harris, which must be done in reverse on Monday.

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20/08/2006 by admin.

Berneray Sunset,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

Photography is taking a back seat to cycling, but I took this opportunity to capture the view of the sunset from behind the hostel, looking back to North Uist from Berneray. Seals frolic in the bay, and a snowy owl has been spotted on the Uists today, though I fear for its health if we hear it hooting outside our window tonight. We also spotted large aquatic mammals from the ferry, possibly Minke whales but were not troubled by otters running across our path on the causeway at Benbecula, despite the warning signs.

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20/08/2006 by admin.

Berneray Youth Hostel,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

Drawing a blank at Lochmaddy, we return to Plan A, a night at Berneray Youth Hostel, which takes no advance bookings but does not turn away the weary traveller. The hostel is located on the northernmost tip of Berneray, after passing through the village of Borgh, where according to the Rough Guide, local character Splash McKillop once entertained the Prince of Wales to a story-telling evening, whilst peeling a mound of King Edward potatoes, possible the supplier to the chip van in Lochmaddy. Liam hasn’t been inside yet, which is why he looks so cheerful. Later, I will be called to account for the quality of the accommodation, the arrangements for which I have been responsible.

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20/08/2006 by admin.

CalMac Ferry,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

A Caledonian MacBrayne, or CalMac, ferry, with Ben More on the Isle of Mull in the background, heads towards Oban on the mainland. We will make extensive use of CalMac ferries on our tour, having purchased Island Rover passes which allow unlimited ferry travel for eight days. The route we are following has more or less been determined by the CalMac timetable, so the longest voyage is the crossing from Oban to Lochboisdale on South Uist today. At one time there were no ferries between the Outer Hebrides on Sunday, but recently a service between Berneray and Harris has been introduced, allowing us to compile a circular itinerary starting today. Bikes travel free, and as foot passengers, reservations aren’t necessary, so we can still change our plans if required.

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20/08/2006 by admin.

North Uist Cuisine,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

After an uneventful 40 miles from Lochboisdale, down the flat landscape of South Uist, over the causeways of Benbecula, we stop off at Lochmaddy on North Uist, with a view to staying here overnight if we find accommodation and sustenance. The description in the Rough Guide conjours up a vision of Las Vegas, so we scan the horizon for glimpses of neon lights and fireworks. Fortunately the chippie van is still open, as everything else is closed. We are seriously tempted by Pizza Crunch, with a Deep Fried Mars Bar to follow, but settle for a large Fish Supper. Having now exhausted Lochmaddy’s range of tourist attractions, we decide to continue our journey as planned to Berneray, and take our chances with the youth hostel there, a former crofter’s cottage situated on a lonely headland.

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20/08/2006 by admin.

Oban to Lochboisdale, 12th August,
originally uploaded by lightboxuk.

With a Travelogue project to produce for the MA course in Photojournalism & Documentary Photography I am taking at Bolton Uni, I come up with the idea of a cycling tour of the Western Isles of Scotland. The chances of completing this tour are vastly increased when my brother Liam agrees to join me. Day One, Saturday morning, and we leave Oban in the distance as our first ferry embarks on the 6 hour voyage to Lochboisdale on South Uist in the Outer Hebrides. We plan to cycle up to Berneray today, then cross to Harris and Lewis tomorrow, before heading over to Skye, across to the mainland, over to Mull, then back to Oban. Liam is a very experienced cyclist, and completed L’Etape du Tour last year, whereas I started road cycling a few months ago, and my best effort is 100 miles over a weekend, so it’s unknown territory for me, the other unknown factor being how the bikes will handle with the extra weight of the paniers. We have agonised long and hard about what essential kit must be carried, and what can safely be left out. I have an extra bag containing NutraGrain Elevenses, and Liam has a hip flask containing whisky. We fear most Sunday on Harris and Lewis, when swings are chained in the park, hanging out washing is outlawed, and the chances of a pint of heavy and a Scotch pie are less than nil. Liam’s thoughtful, almost wistful expression seems to convey this complex mix of emotions.

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